Mechanic came to change my Crankshaft Position sensor. He said the cover bolts are rusted and horrible and I need someone to torch/crack the bolts....

 

There is a spray called PB Blaster (auto parts store) that can be sprayed on, and left for a day or so, keep adding it, and it penetrates the rust. May have success with that. Bolts are small, so a small hardware store torch would also work, but I would try the spray first. Obviously in low temepratures this will take longer to work. This is certainly in a spot where rust could happen in your area.

 

Those are very small bolts on the CPS cover and I would be very surprised if they were rusted to the point he couldn't get them off. If I had to guess he couldn't reach his arms up in there and he wants to take out the exhaust Y-pipe bolts to get more room and those are the rusted soild ones. Just my opinion, could be wrong......

 

Agreed - see todays https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e2/#post294772

 

New mechanic fixed the CPS in 30 mins. Car started but ran rough after he charged my battery. 15 mins later car wouldn't start. Mechanic read codes: p1536 and p0650. Paid the $100 and he looked at my car and suggested the following:
New battery (the one I have is a "baby battery" and is over working)
New spark plugs
New filter (I use mid grade and throttle body is dirty)
New thermostat/gasket (im burning off coolant and he will look for leaks)
New hose (leaking)
New serpentine belt (the 1 i have is cracking)

All this is $550 and include parts and labor. Basically I have all these electrical problems b/c of a cheap, overworked battery.
The hazard lights wont go off now, so he disconnected the battery.

 

Your thermostat does not have a gasket, it connects to three rubber hoses. Throttle body can be cleaned inside with a spray made for the purpose. Other items other than coolant leak are regular service issues. The codes IMHO are related to your electrical battery low volts problems and may clear when battery replaced.

Run rough / no start could be the sensor he installed was mounted slightly out of alignemnt - spacing is critical. When engine warms up, it may quit. You can take a plug wire loose, attach a plug, lay on manifold, and crank truck while someone looks for sparks. No sparks = sensor.

 

Car was at mechanic for 2 days. Still won't start. So now we suspect the fuel pump died bc of low voltage. Can't afford a new one for $500 from land rover so I'm buying one from a junk yard. Hopefully it works.

 

Fuel pump pressure test point is back of engine, driver side, under the top of the intake manifold, hard to get to with pressure gauge. Pump only runs for maybe thirty seconds if engine is not running. Crank Position Sensor tells computer engine is turning. Hard to say which came first, the chicken or the egg. We've had posts of people just replacing the pump alone with an aftermarket part form Airtex. Seems like part under $80.

 

Thanks!
I'm at Autozone.com and there are many airtex replacement fuel pumps. What PSI and gph is ok for the discovery II?? Here are the options:

9 PSI.... 30 gph
10-14 PSI ....25-30 gph
5-9 PSI....30 gph
45-65 PSI.....35 gph

 

The spec from the RAVE is:

Regulated pump output pressure 3.5 bar (50.75 lbf.in2)

so the 45-65 PSI would be indicated. You won't use the 35 gallons per hour...